The honeymoon’s not over: A return to Sicily uncovers new reasons to fall in love with this alluring island

A dozen years later, in June, we returned to Sicily, ready to make good on that unfulfilled wish to bike the bejesus out of its hilly, scenic roads. This time, we brought someone who likes to bike as much as we do: my 18-year-old stepson, Ben. We figured a bike trip in the land of his ancestors would make a memorable high school graduation gift — and give us a good excuse to return to this beguiling island, the largest in the Mediterranean.