Lonely Planet’s guide to the cruise ports of Northeast Asia

Modern metropolises and ancient capitals fringe the coastlines of Northeast Asia.

Volcanic mountain peaks, glittering ski fields and semi tropical islands, blended with world-class eating, irresistible shopping and a fascinating cultural heritage, await those cruising between the region’s historic port cities.

Each stop along your voyage tells a different chapter of the region’s story. Some of these historic cities bear few traces of what came before, while others offer windows to the past amid the modernity. It’s there in the Ming-dynasty Yùyuán Gardens, the graceful temples and tea ceremonies of Kyoto, and the haunting reminders of unimaginable loss in Okinawa-hontō and Hiroshima.

For generations, the ports of Northeast Asia have been the site of international exchange, meeting points for goods, cultures and people. There’s an intoxicating buzz to the region’s urban centres, with their vibrant street life, glowing streetscapes, 24-hour drinking-and-dining scenes, and architectural wonders that redefine what buildings – and cities – should look like. Not only Tokyo and Shanghai, but rising stars Taipei and Busan, too.

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Beyond the cities lie scenic stars of the natural world: the dramatic volcanic island of Jeju-do, steaming onsen (hot-spring baths) amid powdery winter snow in Hokkaidō, and iconic Mt Fuji among them.

Wherever you go, you’re never far from a great meal. Restaurants often specialise in just one dish – and most towns have their own signature preparations and ingredients. From the splendour of a Kyoto geisha dance to the spare beauty of a Zen rock garden to the glamour of a sky-high cocktail bar, Northeast Asia tells a spellbinding tale.

Essential Northeast Asia

Activities

Many ports offer easy access to short walks; in Sapporo you can even zip up to the snowfields. Follow up with a massage, a spa or an onsen. Many believe the waters to have curative properties; at the very least, you will sleep very, very well after a soak.

Amusement parks are another regional highlight, from big international names (Disney and Lego), to homegrown ones.

Shopping

Tokyo is the fashion trendsetter for all of Japan; Osaka has a street-smart style of its own. Kyoto is the place to pick up traditional goods, such as anything tea-related. Around the country are pottery towns (Naha is a highlight) and others famous for local crafts.

Shànghǎi shoppers buy up big-time. Whether you’re after boutique threads, handmade ceramics or a period poster from the Mao era, Shànghǎi is an A to Z of shopping.

In South Korea, make-up and beauty products are particularly hot items. More unique mementos include pottery, tea, soju (local vodka), K-Pop branded food, Korean sweets and hanbok (traditional clothing).

Eating

As visitors to Northeast Asia quickly discover, people here are absolutely obsessed with food. Every region has its own proud specialities and traditions, and, unsurprisingly, sublime seafood is common across the ports. Seasonal cuisine is also a key feature, with each season bringing signature ingredients and dishes.

Lavish restaurants featuring Michelin stars, celebrity chefs and degustation menus abound, but just as satisfying are hole-in-the-wall dumpling joints (a Shànghǎi classic) and bustling markets (Taipei’s are renowned). In Japan, look to food courts in department stores and train stations for easy options. Few sights lack an on-site cafe, kiosk or street stalls selling tasty snacks.

Drinking

Tea is a fundamental part of life in Northeast Asia. In Japan, o-cha (tea) means green tea and broadly speaking there are two kinds: ryokucha (steeped with leaves) and matcha, which is made by whisking dried and milled leaves with water until a cappuccino level of frothiness is achieved. Green tea is also popular in South Korea. Prized high-mountain oolong, found in Shànghǎi and Taipei, makes a great gift for the folks back home. A newer tradition is bubble tea – a mixture of tea, milk, flavouring, sugar and giant black tapioca balls.

Coffee culture has taken off and you won’t have trouble finding a good coffee shop. For something harder, look for nihonshū (sake) and whisky in Japan, cocktails in Shànghǎi, soju in Korea and craft beers everywhere you go.

Entertainment

Many ships are greeted on arrival by dancers in gorgeous, traditional dress, a fantastic introduction to local traditions. Sumo, steeped in ancient ritual, is Japan’s national sport. Tournaments take place in January, May and September in Tokyo and in March in Osaka. A geisha performance in Kyoto is also worth seeking out. Cinema is booming in Busan; if you can’t catch a movie while in port, check out the city on screen in Black Panther (2018) or Train to Busan (2016).

Sustainable Cruising

From air and water pollution to the swamping of popular destinations by hordes of tourists, travelling on cruise ships isn’t without significant impacts – choose your cruise line carefully.

Environmental Issues

Although all travel comes with an environmental cost, by their very size, cruise ships have an outsized effect. Among the main issues:

Air pollution: According to UK-based Climate Care, a carbon-offsetting company, cruise ships emit more carbon per passenger than airplanes – nearly twice as much – and that’s not factoring in the flights that most passengers take to get to their point of departure. Most ships burn low-grade bunker fuel, which contains more sulphur and particulates than higher-quality fuel.

Water pollution: Cruise ships generate enormous amounts of sewage, solid waste and grey water, which often just gets dumped directly (or with minimal treatment) into the sea. Some countries are beginning to introduce legislation to curb this behaviour, but unfortunately legislation is lacking when it comes to international waters.

Cultural impact: Although cruise lines generate money for their ports of call, thousands of people arriving at once can change the character of a town and may seem overwhelming to locals and non-cruising travellers.

What You Can Do

The cruise industry notes that it complies with international regulations – and adapts to stricter regional laws as required. As consumer pressure grows, more ships are being equipped with new waste-water treatment facilities, LED lighting and solar panels. Some operators are also upping their game when it comes to recycling and waste management.

If you’re planning a cruise, it’s worth doing some research. Email the cruise lines and ask them about their environmental policies: waste-water treatment, recycling initiatives and whether they use alternative energy sources. Knowing that customers care about these matters has an impact on cruise-ship operations.

There are also organisations that review the environmental records of cruise lines and ships. These include Friends of the Earth (foe.org/projects/cruise-ships) and World Travel Awards’ (worldtravelawards.com) annual awards for the World’s Leading Green Cruise Line.

According to Friends of the Earth, two of the most sustainable large cruiseship companies running cruises in Asia are Holland America and Norwegian Cruise Line.

On the Ship

* Ask about recycling facilities on the ship and use them.
* Conserve water and energy.
* Don’t use sinks and toilets as rubbish bins – only flush away what you must.
* Never throw rubbish from the ship into the sea.

In Port

* Skip bottled water: Apart from in Shànghǎi, the water in Northeast Asia is generally safe to drink, so pack a reusable water bottle.
* Ride the bus, train or tram: Most cities in the region have excellent public-transport networks. Also take the opportunity to explore cities on foot.
* Hire a bike: Some ports have easily accessible rental or share bikes.
* Say no to plastic: Bring your own reusable bags to carry anything you buy. Avoid plastic straws.
* Make a positive impact: Support independently owned businesses and look for opportunities to interact with locals.