Personal Journey: Exploring France the river-cruise way

The Amadeus carries 128 passengers, so crowding was not on this ship’s radar. It belongs to an Austrian line, and we shared the trip with Italian, Spanish, and German guests. Docking parallel to other luxury cruise ships, we observed similar amenities and identical cabins. River cruises share comparable itineraries.

Staying unpacked for a week and visiting medieval cities in each port was a pleasure. Four hundred fifty-one miles on two rivers was relaxing, romantic, and remarkable for exploring new sights. The Rhone and Saone are calm, but we entered 15 locks built into dams on our voyage. These were constructed a half-century ago to control disastrous flooding on both rivers. The engineering involved and the crew’s piloting, with just millimeters to spare in each lock, are marvels to witness.

Gourmet dishes were elegantly served, and the cuisine varied depending upon the regions we passed.

In the Beaujolais region, we walked through vineyards, learned about grape varieties, and sampled wines. The Ardeche was “lavender fields forever,” with Ellen joyously walking among the fragrant purple blooms.

Avant-garde artists, crazy outfits, weird vehicles, and street performers amused us in Chalon-sur-Saone. Photography, we learned, was invented there at the Nicephore Niepce Museum we happened upon. Almost every city had open-air markets, a merry-go-round, and quaint houses, with narrow alleys to explore.

On river cruises, it’s possible to see more of a country without the hassle of road trips and changing hotels every other day. Supersized ships dock far from city centers but are within walking distance of town.

At the Pont du Gard Aqueduct, 2,000-year-old Roman engineering lives on. I climbed its 165 feet to see how water flowed 30 miles to the city of Nimes.

Avignon, the “City of Popes,” with its fortress walls and 600-year history, was another favorite. Its palaces contain frescoes, cloisters, chapels, and the private apartments of seven popes. With foreign travel, expect the unexpected. A horse torso hanging from a ceremonial hall ceiling grabbed our attention. It was part of an exposition with giant spiders and contemporary art by five women called Les Papesses.

Farther south was Arles, with its Roman amphitheater that once hosted gladiators and that today presents bullfights. It was also where Van Gogh spent a year, and we were able to identify places he painted.

With minimal effort, river cruising was great traveling. Touring a major section of France satisfied my international appetite.

Personal Journey:

PERSONAL JOURNEY

Barry Sussmann writes from Maple Glen.