Jamaica travel: Reefs, reggae and curious crocs

After meandering back through meadows full of grazing cows, and stopping for a Jamaican snack at Juici Patties (lldi and I had traditional patties in a warm chunk of glutinous coco bread, Jermain went for chicken-foot soup), we boarded a boat trip up the Black River.

THE TOWN of Black River was once a thriving sugar port with a large market for African slaves, and was the first place in Jamaica to get running water and electricity, in 1893. It’s surrounded by 21,000 acres of wetlands famed for a population of 500 crocodiles.

On the cruise upriver, through overhanging mangroves with their root tendrils dangling down to the water, we got to meet several of them, including 55-year-old Eric who lazily swam over to us in the hope of chicken titbits from our guide.

After a day on the road it was wonderful to get back to the Riu and dive into the sea – the temperature of a tepid bath – before facing the daily conundrum of what to choose from the vast dinner buffet.The PalaceTropical Bay has four a la carte restaurants (fusion, Italian, Japanese and steak house, all part of your all-inclusive deal), plus a Jerk Shack. However, the buffet restaurant groans with a huge selection of fruits, salads, local and international hot dishes, and enough delightful desserts and exquisite little cakes to stock a patisserie.

We ate breakfast, lunch and dinner there most days, wandering around slack-jawed while trying to make a decision. Paella or conch curry? Roast duck or fried shrimp with yam and callaloo? Sated, it was a joy to then relax in the warm embrace of a Caribbean evening and have a few drinks while watching some live reggae on the outside stage of the hotel garden.