Photo journal: A trip through Europe as temperatures soared toward record highs

In late July, Europe experienced a historic heat wave. Much of Europe baked in temperatures that were 20 degrees or more above average, and five countries set high-temperature records. Paris recorded an all-time high temperature of 109 degrees on July 25. Residents and tourists without air conditioning suffered in the record-breaking heat.

But how was the weather in Europe leading up to the heat wave? Was the heat wave a long-duration event or was it a relatively short-lived blast of very hot air?

I was traveling through Europe when the heat wave occurred. My wife and I booked a Viking Rhine River Cruise that began in Basel, Switzerland, on July 16 and ended in Amsterdam on July 23. We extended our stay on both ends of the trip and returned home on July 25, during the peak of the heat wave.

We were given the forecast of the impending heat wave many days in advance, soon after we arrived in Switzerland, and throughout the trip I kept a weather journal and took photos each day, waiting for the big warm-up.

We arrived July 14 in Lucerne, Switzerland, and were greeted with beautiful, sunny weather. This is a view of Chapel Bridge in Lucerne on the afternoon of the 14th. The high temperature was 75 degrees. (Kevin Ambrose)

We stayed in Amsterdam for three days, and I photographed scenes across the city in the heat, showing people trying to stay cool. We were lucky that our hotel had air conditioning, but we often sizzled in the city’s tram cars, which did not have air conditioning or good air flow. We left Amsterdam midday on July 25 and arrived back at Dulles Airport, where temperatures were cooler than in Amsterdam.

Below I provide a day-by-day description of the weather from Switzerland to Amsterdam, with photos showing various historical places and scenic views. Additional photos are included at the bottom of the post.

July 15: Lucerne, Switzerland

The low and high temperatures were 57 and 68 degrees in Lucerne. The weather was cloudy and cool with scattered showers, but the sun broke through the clouds during the midafternoon.

During the morning, we took a boat ride on Lake Lucerne and later took a cogwheel railway to the top of Mount Pilatus, which was socked in by clouds and fog. On top of the mountain, wind-driven rain with temperatures in the upper 40s made conditions quite uncomfortable outdoors. There were no good mountain views because of low clouds and fog.

A view of Lake Lucerne on a cloudy and cool day, July 15. The high temperature was 68 degrees. (Kevin Ambrose)

The views from the top of Mount Stanserhorn along the high-elevation hiking trails were breathtaking. More photos of the view are included at the bottom of the post.

The view from the top of Mount Stanserhorn on July 16. The temperature was in the upper 50s at the top of the mountain with a brisk breeze. (Kevin Ambrose)

The low and high temperature was 54 and 81 degrees in Breisach. In the Black Forest, the temperature peaked in the mid- to upper-70s during our hike. We had bright, sunny weather with light winds.

There were no biting flies, mosquitoes or spider webs in the forest, which was a nice change from hikes in buggy woods that I often experience in the D.C. area during summer months. I could have hiked for hours through the Black Forest, but time constraints limited our hike to about two miles.

The weather was perfect for hiking through Germany’s Black Forest on July 17. The temperature was in the mid- to upper-70s with clear skies. (Kevin Ambrose)

The low and high temperatures in Strasbourg were 57 and 82 degrees. We had a beautiful, sunny day for strolling through the scenic city. The flower-lined canals were particularly beautiful. We also visited the impressive Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg, located near the center of town (photo at the bottom of the post).

A flower-lined canal in Strasbourg, France, under clear skies on July 18. The high temperature reached 82 degrees during the afternoon. (Kevin Ambrose)

The low and high temperatures in Heidelberg were 66 and 81 degrees. The day was mostly cloudy, with periods of sun during the afternoon. Fortunately, the sun appeared just in time for our arrival at the castle. The castle is on a hillside with a commanding view of the city below.

From the castle, we walked to Old Town Heidelberg for drinks at a bar that had outdoor seating. The weather was pleasant to sit outside on the street with a beer while watching the foot traffic.

The ruins of Heidelberg’s 16th-century castle under bright sunshine on July 19. The high temperature for the day reached 81 degrees. (Kevin Ambrose)

The low and high temperatures were 61 and 81 degrees in Braubach. Much of the day was spent on the river boat’s sun deck as we floated down the Rhine Gorge, admiring and photographing numerous castles along the river’s shore.

The day was sunny and warm, and it was the first time during the trip that I got a sunburn, although fairly minor. Late in the day, we stopped and toured Marksburg Castle.

The view of Marksburg Castle from the Rhine River on July 20. The high temperature was 81 degrees. (Kevin Ambrose)

The low and high temperatures were 57 and 79 degrees in Cologne. The day was mostly cloudy. My wife and I climbed to the top of the Cologne Cathedral, over 500 steps, and were treated to a nice view of the city. Most of the stairs we climbed in the cathedral involved a narrow, spiral staircase that seemed to never end. If you don’t like tight spaces, I wouldn’t recommend the climb.

Later in the day, I was treated Cologne’s special Kölsch beer, served from wooden kegs. I love Kölsch! It’s light compared with most American craft brews, but it’s flavorful.

The Cologne Cathedral under mostly cloudy skies on July 21. The high temperature was 79 degrees. (Kevin Ambrose)

The low and high temperatures were 61 and 79 degrees in Kinderdijk. The sky was clear, with a strong breeze from the southwest that turned the windmill blades quite rapidly, over 90 kilometers per hour (or about 56 mph), our tour guide explained. Thus, windmills can be dangerous if you get too close.

Our hike along the large canals and dikes, past the windmills, was one of my favorite parts of the trip. It helped that the strong breeze with warm sunshine felt refreshing. At the end of the hike, we climbed to the top of a large windmill for a better view.

A view of windmills in Kinderdijk, Netherlands, during a beautiful summer day on July 22. The high temperature was 79 degrees. (Kevin Ambrose)

While visiting Amsterdam, we took a canal boat ride, visited museums and experienced the Heineken brewery tour. My previous Amsterdam post with photos can be found here.

Cooling off Wednesday at the Rijksmuseum Reflecting Pool in Amsterdam on July 24. The high temperature was 95. (Kevin Ambrose)

Regarding my earlier question, “Was the heat wave a long-duration event or was it a relatively short-lived blast of hot air?” The heat wave lasted three to four days but was bookended by nice, seasonable weather. Here’s a link showing the temperature range in Paris over the past few weeks, which includes the heat wave.

In conclusion, the trip was enjoyable and quite memorable, heat wave included. A river cruise certainly provides an opportunity to visit many places without the need for a rental car or tracking down train and bus schedules. Now it’s back to reality, including the District’s hot and humid weather.

Here are more photos from the trip:

A Swiss cow grazes on Mount Pilatus in the fog and rain on July 15. (Kevin Ambrose)
Sunset in Switzerland after the rain and clouds depart on July 15.
A clear view of Lake Lucerne from the top of Mount Stanserhorn on July 16. (Kevin Ambrose)
A hiking trail on top of Mount Stanserhorn on July 16. (Kevin Ambrose)
The moon rises full over the Rhine River several hours before the half-blood thunder moon eclipse on July 16.
The Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg in France on July 18. (Kevin Ambrose)
A view of Heidelberg, Germany, photographed from the castle on July 19. (Kevin Ambrose)
A Rhine River view, photographed from a riverboat on July 20.
A Rhine River castle on July 20. (Kevin Ambrose)
A view of Cologne, Germany, photographed from the top of the cathedral in the city July 21. (Kevin Ambrose)
A windmill view in Kinderdijk, Netherlands, on July 22. (Kevin Ambrose)
The Basilica of St. Nicholas in Amsterdam on July 23. (Kevin Ambrose)
An Amsterdam street scene during the heat wave on July 24. (Kevin Ambrose)