Bocas del Toro is a wild ride, waves or no
Bocas del Toro is a wild ride, waves or no
More Galleries
If you go
Getting there: There are a few options to get to the island. From Los Angeles International Airport, flights are available straight to Panama City for $750 round-trip, but deals with a layover in Miami occasionally pop up for about $350. Once in Panama City, catch another flight on AirPanama ($300 round-trip), or hop on an overnight shuttle bus for about $50.
Where to stay: There’s a wide range of accommodations on several islands, but the majority are on Colon Island. There, you can find basic lodging at places like Hotel Laguna for $45 a night. Hotel Olas is set on the water, and offers a view of passing boats; $55-$85 a night, hotelolas.com. If you want to get away from the bustle of the town center for a more resort feel, head to Playa Tortuga, which has a pool, private beach and buffet breakfast; around $165-$200 nightly, hotelplayatortuga.com
There are also several oceanfront accommodations on Carenero Island, and Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos Island has options for visitors who want more of a jungle experience, with a short walk to less-crowded beaches.
Where to eat: There’s no shortage of fresh seafood on the islands, and you can’t miss with any of the local restaurants’ interpretations of ceviche. The islands are dotted with extraordinary and diverse menus suited for any foodie looking for unique eats.
El Ultimo Rufugio (ultimorefugio.com) has a memorable creamy lobster risotto and a romantic setting. El Limbo on the Sea (ellimbo.com) has a view of the passing boat taxis and nearby islands. The curry fish served with au gratin potatoes are a must-have, and I couldn’t help but go back for the massive whole lobster priced at just $18.
But by far the best place we discovered was Guari Guari, a hard-to-find restaurant set on a dirt road near the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute. The menu is not discussed beforehand and each night is different. Five courses are revealed through the evening, each presented like a gift to unveil. Among my favorites were the somewhat-spicy smoked paprika shrimp, the sun-dried tomato, pesto and goat cheese flautas, and the pork chop so tender it melted in our mouths. The price? $25. Info: bocasdeltoro.travel/guari-guari
Where to surf: I can’t write this one based on personal experience. But many online resources can guide surf travelers to a variety of breaks. Bluff Beach on the main island is known as a heavy beach break, and there are plenty of reef breaks accessible by boat taxis. The main surfing season is from December through March, when waves are in the 4- to 12-foot range. May through July is a bit smaller, when waves in the 3- to 8-foot range can be found. Don’t even bother in October or November. The most accessible spots are on Colon Island, Carenero Island and Bastimentos Island.
Must know: No need to change your currency, since Panama also uses the dollar. And while many in Panama speak English, it’s good to brush up on your Spanish when heading to the islands.
We got the devastating news right when we set foot on the island region of Bocas del Toro in Panama.
“No waves, flat,” the taxi driver said, motioning his hand in front of him like he was scraping the top of a lake. “Don’t even think about it.”
Jon and I had high hopes that our honeymoon would consist of hours sitting in lukewarm waters waiting for the next set to roll in, riding wave after wave until the sun went down.
The islands have become the latest hot spot in surf travel, as pro surfers seek out uncrowded waves, with endless reef breaks and barrels on offer.
In the weeks and days leading up to our trip, we’d checked surf forecasts diligently, all hinting that surf would be dismal. But surely there would be something, a crumble of a wave at least, to fill our days.
Nope, nothing. Not a wave in sight. Totally skunked.
Telling two surfers that their dream honeymoon vacation would be waveless was heartbreaking, to say the least.
Fortunately, the islands of Bocas del Toro have much to offer, an archipelago made up of nine main islands and thousands of tiny ones, where the water is crystal clear and secluded stretches of beach beckon for an escape from life stresses.
On the main island, Colon, a bustling tourist area makes finding exploration excursions easy, and boat taxis from here are the best way to jump from island to island.
And let’s not forget the best part of island life: lots and lots of rum everywhere you go.
We spent the first day getting the lay of the land after flying to Colon Island from Panama City. Walking down the main tourist drag, the offerings came quick from the peddlers hoping to nab a tourist.
“Boat taxi? Snorkel? Bike rentals?” the salesmen would call out as we passed.
NO SLOTHLIKE ADVENTURERS
Our first big outing was an activity called Deep Board. Neither Jon nor I had heard of this excursion that recently showed up on the island, but we were intrigued. And for $49 each it sounded like a day well spent on the water.
The boat filled with about 10 others from various places around the world, and we made our way to an island about 20 minutes away. The boat operators – two brothers serving as our guides – squinted as they looked at the trees during a quick stop on the way to our destination.
“Sloths, look,” they called out, pointing upward.
Leave a Reply