My best travel experience

After more than three decades of traveling the globe, we are often asked what our favorite travel experience has been. We’ve just had it – a deliriously happy week aboard the new S.S. Joie de Vivre, cruising 325 nautical miles up and down the Seine River in France to Normandy. Only 128 lucky passengers get to cruise the Joie de Vivre each sailing from her mooring overlooking the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

The Joie de Vivre is Uniworld’s latest Super Ship designed to bring the “joy of living” to the rivers of France. From the moment we stepped aboard this luxurious floating pied-à-terre, we were enchanted with its charming crew of 54 – the highest guest-to-staff ratio of any river cruise line – and awe-inspiring decor designed to reflect 20th century Paris, with exquisite fabrics, marble-clad bathrooms, handcrafted furniture and art sourced from Sotheby’s. There’s even a waterfall in the elevator, not surprising given that the owners are the Tollmans, the distinguished family that’s run the highly regarded Red Carnation Hotel company for decades.

The Joie de Vivre has two royal suites, with full size bathtubs, eight junior suites and 54 cabins. White-gloved butlers with silver pocket watches tend to the suites. Our butlers, V and Ion, never missed a beat. They’ll unpack for you, pack and run errands with unfailing kindness. A hardworking team of chefs, waiters, bartenders, housekeepers, concierge and personal assistants attend to the details.

One of the ship’s greatest assets is its easygoing ambience. Joie de Vivre is luxurious in a comfortable way, high end and yet still low key. There’s a relaxed feeling despite the glam surroundings, and this balance is what makes it work.

A Uniworld ship like the Joie de Vivre seems like your very own large yacht. The staff remembers your name, your preferred gin and how many ice cubes you like. They prepare your favorite foods just the way you like them. They take you to ports larger boats cannot access, then treat you to well-informed tours. The Joie de Vivre glides along in a relaxed fashion as one watches the countryside lazily passing by.

Uniworld is known for its unparalleled cuisine and the Joie de Vivre does not disappoint. There is a reason why Saveur Magazine readers named Uniworld “Best Culinary Cruise Line.” That reason is the dedication and passion of Beatrice Tollman who, together with Uniworld’s global master chef, works tirelessly to bring distinctive cuisine to her guests. Le Pigalle, the ship’s elegant main dining room, is decorated with Tom Saunders soft pastel Paris murals.

A cozy Parisian-style bistro offers delicious onion soup, pâtés, steak, fish and sandwiches, plus red checked tablecloths and Edith Piaf music, at the front of the ship with river views.

A food and wine pairing venue, Le Cave des Vins, is stacked floor-to-ceiling with wines. Two nights are devoted to gala dinners when the chef and his team really show off. Duck, lobster, veal, fresh fish and chickens were roasted, plated and sauced to perfection. Desserts are a tour de force. While the Joie de Vivre maintains a cellar of impressive vintage wines, over 20 quality white wines and 20 excellent red wines, mostly from France, are available at no extra charge.

To work off the delicious calories, start the day with gentle yoga and finish it dancing on the same floor – the wellness space becomes a supper club with a live band at night. In between you can snack on caviar or sip Champagne.

With shared interests of culture, cuisine, activity and adventure, we easily made new friends with our fellow cruisers as we toured Monet’s home and dazzling gardens at Giverny, hiked to the extraordinary Chateau Gaillard in Les Andelys, wandered on a culinary tour of Rouen and marveled at the Old Town and its famous cathedral. One unforgettable day was devoted to touring the Normandy beaches of World War II.

At our docking in Mantes-la-Jolie, we were rewarded with a special peek inside the chapel and opera house at Versailles, thanks to Uniworld’s connections. In Paris, we were offered a cruise and city tour, a “Do as the Locals Do” walk through the Ile de la Cite and Latin Quarter, or an exclusive guided Seine riverbank bike ride. At night we were invited to party at the Moulin Rouge.

Uniworld’s all-inclusive pricing means passengers pay nothing extra for drinks, wines, local and craft beers, daily shore excursions, WiFi, 24-hour room service, yoga, bicycle rental, entertainment, transfers, lectures, self-service guest laundry and gratuities for onboard crew and tour guides. The only extra costs are optional, such as spa treatments, laundry and pressing service, a few premium brands of alcohol and a small selection of additional tours. The onboard currency is the euro, and prices for the Normandy cruise range from $3,149 to $8,799 per person.

While it is often difficult to distill a travel experience into a single thought, let us say that river cruising aboard the Joie de Vivre is exciting, enriching, rewarding and fun. We unequivocally rate Uniworld as the world’s finest luxury river cruise company. For us, it was the best travel experience in 36 years of travel. 

Contact travel editor William Tomicki at wtomicki@aol.com.