Mediterranean cruise features traditional sightseeing, unexpected memories

The Sistine Chapel and Venice, Italy, were responsible for getting my wife and me onto the Riviera, an Oceania cruise ship. The destinations had long been on my bucket list, and both were included in the 12-day Mediterranean journey we discovered online. So were several Eastern European ports we had never expected to visit, such as Kotor, Montenegro. • Airfare, ground tours and other included amenities proved too enticing. So two weeks later we were passengers on what became a memorable voyage for traditional sightseeing, our observations of daily life in each of nine ports-of-call and unexpected events that help make a trip unforgettable.

Arriving eight hours before the Riviera departed from Barcelona, Spain, we had time to visit Basilica Sagrada Familia designed by Antoni Gaudi (1852-1926,) an internationally acclaimed eccentric architect whose work is almost exclusively in the Barcelona area. Work commenced on his fanciful gothic-inspired church in 1882, but construction continues today. Completion is expected in the 2020s when the church will accommodate 13,000 people, feature 18 spires and become the tallest in the world.

In Marseille, France, we rode the “Petit Train,” a tourist tram that takes visitors to the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde, one of the marquee churches of France. It towers over the city from the pinnacle of a hill, affording sweeping panoramas in all directions.

Weather had been pleasant, but by noon the mistral wind began to blow. Characterized by a clear sky, the gale originates inland, blowing into the northern Mediterranean at speeds between 40 and 100 mph. With arms intertwined, and walking at a 45-degree angle, it was a struggle to board the bus returning to the Riviera.

Disembarking for a day at the port of Monte Carlo in the Principality of Monaco, we purchased tickets on an open-top, “hop on/hop off” bus that followed the winding path of the prestigious Grand Prix Formula One race staged annually since 1929. Eventually we got off at the St. Nicholas Cathedral to visit the grave of American actress Princess Grace Kelly, which was adorned by a dozen fresh pink roses.

I had often seen photos of the “super” yachts docked in Monte Carlo harbor, and it was surreal to see them up close. Most featured a slightly elevated gangplank dangling a few feet above the pier, and the temptation to hop on, explore, and then explain I must have boarded the wrong vessel was strong. Instead, we sat on a bench on the pier eating hard-boiled eggs and breakfast muffins liberated from the cruise ship’s morning buffet.

Back on board the Riviera I researched the names of the larger yachts and discovered most owners were wealthy Russian billionaires or Middle Eastern royalty. An example was the 344-foot Lady Moura, owned by Saudi Arabian businessman Nasser Al-Rashid. It featured the name Lady Moura on the stern in 24-karat gold lettering.

At every port Oceania offered as many as 10 different tours, with such themes as history, culinary or architecture. We took those included in the price of the cruise but twice made our own tour arrangements via the internet before leaving St. Louis. Although skeptical the long-distance arrangements would work, in both instances as we disembarked our guide was waiting with a sign holding our name.

In Rome, Davide Bolognesi of Roma Experience Tours (Romaexperience.com) met us at the ship to whisk us to his small group tour of the Vatican, which included our objective of finally visiting the Sistine Chapel, where the College of Cardinals has gathered to elect a new pope since 1492.

Michelangelo was commissioned to paint the ceiling, working on it from 1508 until 1512, covering what had been painted as a blue sky with stars. Returning in his 60s between 1536 and 1541, he added the giant fresco of “The Last Judgment” behind the altar in the chapel.

We were told no talking was allowed in the chapel, so before entering we were given a map of the ceiling and told the religious significance of the immense artwork. We were also instructed where to look for the likeness Michelangelo had painted of himself, and other “secret” images the artist incorporated into his masterpiece.

Expecting a cozy space in keeping with the word “chapel,” we instead passed through a small door into a 132-foot-by 44-foot wide room, with 68-foot ceilings crowded with hundreds of people, heads tilted upward. Guards were continually roaming through the crowd proclaiming “no pictures” and “silencio,” so later we were startled when told that in 2016, U2’s guitarist the Edge had performed a live concert in the room.

Our guide also mentioned private half-hour tours could be arranged for groups of 200 or less, for about $25,000.

In Palermo, Sicily, we walked along Via Vittorio Emanuele, a pedestrian street of interesting boutiques and intersecting alleyways of fish and food markets to explore. Arriving at the circular 1555 Pretoria Fountain, one of the most beautiful fountains in Italy, a friendly gentleman with a pleasant smile began speaking to us in Italian. Soon the word “mafia” crept into his narrative, accompanied by a slashing gesture across his throat. This was repeated several times, always followed by a robust “welcome to Palermo” spoken in English. We were never certain what we were being told, but it was comforting to return to the safely of the Riviera.

The three Adriatic Sea ports of Kotor in Montenegro, Koper in Slovenia and Dubrovnik, Croatia, were notable for their exceptionally well-preserved medieval walled villages. In each, a labyrinth of buildings and narrow cobblestone passageways leading to unexpected courtyards and churches imparted a sensation of having been transported 500 years back in time.

The Riviera’s route into Kotor’s harbor involved an early morning passage through a narrow, 17-mile stretch of water surrounded by mountains, a particularly beautiful sight. Kotor will also be remembered for the cat herds roaming inside the walled city, the many shops selling only cat-themed merchandise and the Cat Museum.

Dubrovnik was notable for the one-plus mile walk along the top of the medieval wall encircling the city, and visits to several “Game of Thrones” film locations.

Koper was the location of the second tour we booked on our own. Ivan Tratnik of Istranka Tours (istranka.si) had arranged a trip to Postojna Cave and Predjama Castle. Every hour at the cave, miniature trains take 700 people on a journey deep into the seven-mile underground labyrinth, and the beginning of an hour walking tour.

The seemingly impenetrable castle was an engineering marvel, built clinging to the side of a sheer rock cliff. The front of the unchanged 1570 fortress concealed that many rooms had been chiseled into the rock face.

However, the tour highlight was the time spent with our guide Bojan Žiberna discussing the independence of Slovenia in 1991 and the current political situation in his nation, as well as listening to his opinion of American politics.

We extended our trip by three days in Venice, where real life along the canals was captivating. Every morning the waterways were crowded with narrow work boats laden with construction material and delivery boats the equivalent of Federal Express trucks. All were captained by a lone man standing in the stern, cigarette tucked in a weather-beaten face, hand on the motor navigating through flotillas of water taxies and vaporettos (water buses). The Grand Canal, the main waterway in Venice, appeared to be a six-lane water highway with boats using any lane, not just headed in either direction, but also zig-zagging from one side to the other.

I had never thought about Venice at night. But, as darkness fell, the windows of the palazzos were illuminated and the running lights of boats were reflected off the water. A beautiful scene appeared.

High tide and rain can flood parts of Venice, including the most popular tourist site, St. Mark’s Square. Portable elevated walkways funnel tourists above the water and across the huge plaza. A steady wind was whipping up small waves into some entrances of the cathedral.

Back on board the ship, the five restaurants serving Asian, French, Italian, steaks and continental cuisine had set menus, and that helped with portion control, except you could order five or six courses, or several entrees for that matter.

Romanian Emil Alexandrescu was the Riviera’s food and beverage manager. “Each of the entrées in all restaurants are only repeated after 14 days,” he told me. “Our kitchens are twice as large as most cruise ships to accommodate the variety of food we prepare.”

Dominique Nicolle, the Riviera’s French general manager imparted that “with Oceania it has always been about the food.” In fact the cruise line advertises “the finest cuisine at sea.”

However, the creative itinerary and the hard-working, congenial staff were also highlights. The crewmembers were always smiling, and seemed to thoroughly enjoy their jobs.

Following the final evening’s entertainment in the ship’s theater, cruise director Peter Roberts from England announced that the crew originated from 50 nations and that everyone enjoyed one another’s company. Then, 300 of the 800 crewmembers entered, clapping to the music of “When the Saints Go Marching In,” and joined Roberts on stage.

“No matter what your political or religious beliefs, or sexual orientation, we only wish everyone could sail with us to experience what the world could, and should, be like,” he said.

He received a standing ovation.

IF YOU GO

The six Oceania vessels rarely repeat the same itinerary, and visit a total of 350 ports yearly. Prices vary by itinerary, season, cabin and current promotional offers. Cruise-only prices can range from $799 per person for an inside stateroom on a seven-day cruise, to $135,399 for a 180-day Around the World cruise in the Owner’s Suite.

Info • oceaniacruises.com