Personal Journey: In the boot of Italy, learning to restore frescoes

I have had a decades-long quest to learn everything I can about the place, the culture, the language. I first went with my parents in 1965, when I was 12, and then not again until my honeymoon, more than 20 years later, when my husband, Ben, and I rented a car and rambled around for three weeks, stopping for the night in towns that piqued our interest.