The gilded reality of travelling the world on an Arab sheikh’s three-month honeymoon

As I waited for my flight to Riyadh in a Heathrow Airport bar, nursing my last GT for the foreseeable future, I was filled with both excitement and fear for my new job as a lady’s maid – travelling the world with an Arab sheikh and his wife on their three-month honeymoon. Over 10 weeks we had an itinerary covering 24 cities in 13 different countries.

I was hired to take care of the sheikha’s extensive wardrobe and accompany the couple on outings. Saudi Arabia, at this time, did not allow tourist visas, so ‘outsiders’ rarely got a glimpse inside the Kingdom. A recruitment agent contacted me about this unique role and it seemed too good an opportunity to turn down. The chance to travel the world, stay in five-star hotels and be paid for it? I didn’t need much persuading. 

I spent most of the flight fretting about when to don my new abaya – the long-sleeved, high-necked, ankle-grazing black dress, obligatory for all Arabic women in Saudi Arabia as a sign of modesty and to express their Muslim faith. Female visitors, up until 2019, were required to follow suit. Most women were wearing full burkas with only their eyes on show, so I felt somewhat naked with my face exposed.